45.4.5Amps Bipolar Stepper Motor driver based on TB6600. SainSmart Genmtisu CNC Router Machine Controller Board for 3018-PROVer. 3 Axis 1.1f USB GRBL Control Board with Offline Working Remote Hand GRBL Controller LCD Screen for CNC Laser Engraving Milling Machine Wood Router.
I do not want to fry the components, and I’m struggling wading through the documentation of these things. I am hooking up a Arduino Uno and a CNC Shield, as I had them around the house. I am struggling with the electrical components of the MPCNC.
Digital Current control (3 bits, 0.5 to.Can I use a 12V, 2.5 Amp power supply to the Arduino? Is that just to run the Arduino? From what I understand, the arduino runs at 1 Amp, but has a fuse that prevents too much current, up to a point.Control Switches (Start, Hold, Grbl Reset): These also should be normally open switches that close to ground. 194.40 (2 used & new offers) 2-in-1 7000 mW CNC 3018 Pro-M CNC Engraving Machine GRBL Control Router Kit 3 Axis PCB Milling Machine Wood Router Engraver with Offline Controller,XYZ Working Area 300 x 180 x 45mm.More Details: Control System: High Current GRBL Controller Bundle Arduino Nano Compatible V3 Stepper Driver : TB6600. Get it as soon as Wed, Sep 15.
8 lighted switches Maximum load capacity of 15 amps (1700 watts).The stepper motors I ordered from the MPCNC website appear to have a “Rated Current/Phase” of 2.0 Amps. It cannot provide any power to run a motor or directly drive a relay.The light controller will also double as a case for the Arduino, grbl and relays. Spindle: This output is a TTL signal for a relay or speed controller.
Grbl Controller Amps Full Rated Current
Note you will likely overheat your steppers if you drive them at full rated current for any length of time.As stated, you probably only need to provide power to the CNC shield, and it will power the Arduino. You should be looking for a 6A 12V to 24V power supply.Ryan ships the Rambo boards and firmware with the drivers set to 0.8A. There is no separate power for the Arduino board. Buying an extra computer to run it seems excessive, so I was wondering if anyone had any alternatives.I’ve not used a CNC shield before, but I’ve been around Arduino boards and well as prowled this forum, so I believe I can give you accurate answers to some of your questions.The appears to be a voltage regulator on the CNC Shield that provided 5V power to the Arduino, so all you have to do is wire up power to the CNC shield. I have found two conflicting equations:Vref = Current Limit * 8 * Current Sensing Resistance.If I use an Arduino Mini CNC SHield, do I need to put Jumper Caps on the “M0, M1, M2” slots? What do those Jumper Caps do?What, then, are my options to provide Gcode instructions to the board? I’m using this as a CNC, and I have to hook this USB up to something.
Running lower current will run the motors cooler, which is a good thing. If it doesn’t boot then try to power the Arduino.Rated current: Don’t max this out. Try it with power to the shield. Yours most likely does not have this problem.
It showed 5V going from the CNC shield to the 5V pin on the Arduino indicating there is a voltage regulator on the CNC shield that will supply 5V for an Arduino There are different versions of the CNC Shield, so I cannot guarantee that your specific board works this way, but at least for the specific one I was looking at, the CNC shield supplied 5V. It’s a simple matter though, find the steps/mm in the configuration file and divide the numbers by 2.Before I posted, I looked up a wiring diagram for the CNC shield. Do note that if you are using the A4988 drivers on that RAMPS based board (I use an MKS Gen L) you will have to adjust the pre-configured firmware, since it comes assuming the DRV8825 drivers and 1/32 microstepping. I recommend that you leave them all on, personally.Using a RAMPS based board is definitely easier, but there is no reason why your CNC shield can’t do the job. Find the lookup tables for the drivers that you use. If you’re setting up your own firmware, you’ll have to adjust that however you set it.You can leave some of those jumpers off.
Not visible on the sides are a fan on the left which pulls air through the enclosure from inlet holes on the right. AC plugs across the top run accessories (more on those below) and DC comes in the bottom left corner. And is is possible that I had it backwards, and that the 5V breakout pin is powered from the Arduino/USB.Power and USB come in the right side. I don’t see this setup being run headless (without being USB tethered to a computer), so the Arduino will be powered from the PC. The shield will handle 36V.Edit: Just found a reference that a 5V breakout pin was added in CNC Shield version 2.01.Edit2: Tom is right.
The e-stop button is inline with the AC power and cuts energy to everything when tripped. One each for X,Y, and Z axis motor and single end stops, and the fourth carries the PWM sensor power and signal wires and supports a probe connection (independent of the end stops). The 4 gray cables coming out of the left side are shielded 6 conductor cables. A DPDT switch allows RPM control to be driven by the CNC controller or manually with a 10k potentiometer.
Mains power feeds in top right and runs to the e-stop switch but those wires run under the plywood that the visible control boards are mounted to. All the visible leds are powered through the arduino usb connection.The top 2/3rds or so is power management. Note that I did power off the mains when opening the case.
Right-most outlet is always on (as long as main switch is on and e-stop hasn’t been triggered) and is where the 19 V DC power supply that runs the steppers and the button lights is plugged in. Two center outlets are controlled by 2 of the 4 relays which are wired to the flood and mist coolant pins. The nano provides the PWM signal to the triac board and also drives the lcd display for spindle rpm. The spindle (left-most outlet) is controlled by the V1Engineering triac board which you can see on the left and the Arduino nano buried beneath the multicolored wiring just south of the relay board.
Due to changes made to grbl after this board was designed, specifically around PWM for spindle RPM/laser intensity control, not all the silkscreen legends labeling the pins are accurate. CNCjs 1.9.20 Connected to /dev/ttyUSB0 with a baud rate of 115200$11=0.010 (Junction deviation, millimeters)$24=200.000 (Homing locate feed rate, mm/min)$25=1800.000 (Homing search seek rate, mm/min)$26=25 (Homing switch debounce delay, milliseconds)$27=1.000 (Homing switch pull-off distance, millimeters)$100=100.000 (X-axis travel resolution, step/mm)$101=100.000 (Y-axis travel resolution, step/mm)$102=400.000 (Z-axis travel resolution, step/mm)$110=8000.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min)$111=8000.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min)$112=360.000 (Z-axis maximum rate, mm/min)$120=2000.000 (X-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)$121=2000.000 (Y-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)$122=1500.000 (Z-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)$130=345.500 (X-axis maximum travel, millimeters)$131=510.500 (Y-axis maximum travel, millimeters)$132=68.800 (Z-axis maximum travel, millimeters)Since the wiring in my pictures makes it hard to see what’s going on, I grabbed a clean photo of the CNC shield from here.Note that this is a photo of version 3.00 of the CNC shield, which is the version I’m using (although mine does not have the glass fuse the photo shows). Note that these are specific to my build, particularly things like homing directions and axis travel. The other wires are AC to the e-stop and light & signal wires for the Start, Stop, and Cancel buttons.Here’s the output upon connection from cncjs, which includes my grbl $$ settings. Originally I planned to use some 12 v leds down by the tool but decided those wires for Z end stop and a separate probe connection.The bottom left side has a cooling fan which pulls air through the enclosure and the DC power inlet for the steppers.
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